![]() |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Radar Detector w/GPS red light camera locator BLUE LED | ![]() | ![]() | US $429.95 | 16d 17h 17m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Blue Radar Detector NEW UNOPENED SEALED IN BOX! | ![]() | 24 Bids | US $395.00 | 5h 48m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 x50 Radar Detector BLUE | ![]() | 22 Bids | US $152.55 | 17h 56m |
![]() | Passport 8500 X50 Blue Radar Detectory by Escort | ![]() | 1 Bid | US $199.00 | 18h 17m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Blue Radar Detector | ![]() | 18 Bids | US $300.52 | 1d 3h 5m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix BlueLaser Detector w/ GPS 9500 ix | ![]() | 1 Bid | US $300.00 | 2d 7h 35m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Radar Detector BLUE | ![]() | 0 Bid | US $350.00 | 3d 4h 57m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 Radar Detector blue | ![]() | ![]() | US $200.00 | 3d 13h 32m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 X50 Radar Laser Detector Blue LED | ![]() | 2 Bids | US $92.00 | 3d 14h 18m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 Radar Detector(blue) | ![]() | 8 Bids | US $36.00 | 3d 23h 8m |
| Powered by phpBay Pro |
![]() |
![]() | Escort Blue Coiled Smart Cord Radar Detectors Passport Beltronics OEM New | ![]() | ![]() | US $34.95 | 17h 57m |
![]() | Escort Blue Direct Wire Smart Cord Radar Detectors Beltronics Solo Passport OEM | ![]() | ![]() | US $34.95 | 20d 2h 14m |
![]() | Escort Blue Straight 12 ft Smart Cord Radar Detectors OEM Passport Beltronics | ![]() | ![]() | US $34.95 | 29d 18h 24m |
![]() | Escort PASSPORT X50 BLUE Radar Detector -FactoryWarrnty | ![]() | ![]() | US $229.95 | 22d 22h 59m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 X50 Blue Radar / Laser Detector -FACTORY SEALED- | ![]() | ![]() | US $319.95 | 9d 17h 37m |
| Powered by phpBay Pro |
Escort Passport Blue

![]() |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Radar Detector w/GPS red light camera locator BLUE LED | ![]() | ![]() | US $429.95 | 16d 17h 17m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Blue Radar Detector NEW UNOPENED SEALED IN BOX! | ![]() | 24 Bids | US $395.00 | 5h 48m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 x50 Radar Detector BLUE | ![]() | 22 Bids | US $152.55 | 17h 56m |
![]() | Passport 8500 X50 Blue Radar Detectory by Escort | ![]() | 1 Bid | US $199.00 | 18h 17m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Blue Radar Detector | ![]() | 18 Bids | US $300.52 | 1d 3h 5m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix BlueLaser Detector w/ GPS 9500 ix | ![]() | 1 Bid | US $300.00 | 2d 7h 35m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Radar Detector BLUE | ![]() | 0 Bid | US $350.00 | 3d 4h 57m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 Radar Detector blue | ![]() | ![]() | US $200.00 | 3d 13h 32m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 X50 Radar Laser Detector Blue LED | ![]() | 2 Bids | US $92.00 | 3d 14h 18m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 Radar Detector(blue) | ![]() | 8 Bids | US $36.00 | 3d 23h 8m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500i Blue Radar Detector | ![]() | 0 Bid | US $299.99 | 4d 54m |
![]() | NEW ESCORT 9500iX BLUE LED PASSPORT RADAR LASER DETECTOR 9500 iX 9500IXBLUE | ![]() | ![]() | US $428.99 | 16d 5h 4m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Blue Radar Detector with direct Wire and update programs. | ![]() | ![]() | US $480.00 | 4d 6h 20m |
![]() | Escort PASSPORT Direct Wire SmartCord Blue - No Reserve and FREE SHIPPING! | ![]() | 3 Bids | US $11.50 | 4d 6h 43m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500X50 Radar Detector, BLUE LED, NEW!! | ![]() | ![]() | US $293.95 | 24d 16h 6m |
| Powered by phpBay Pro |
![]() |
![]() | Escort Blue Coiled Smart Cord Radar Detectors Passport Beltronics OEM New | ![]() | ![]() | US $34.95 | 17h 57m |
![]() | Escort Blue Direct Wire Smart Cord Radar Detectors Beltronics Solo Passport OEM | ![]() | ![]() | US $34.95 | 20d 2h 14m |
![]() | Escort Blue Straight 12 ft Smart Cord Radar Detectors OEM Passport Beltronics | ![]() | ![]() | US $34.95 | 29d 18h 24m |
![]() | Escort PASSPORT X50 BLUE Radar Detector -FactoryWarrnty | ![]() | ![]() | US $229.95 | 22d 22h 59m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 X50 Blue Radar / Laser Detector -FACTORY SEALED- | ![]() | ![]() | US $319.95 | 9d 17h 37m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 X50 V-Tuned Radar/Laser Detector With Blue Illum. 8500X50B | ![]() | ![]() | US $296.95 | 21d 23h 1m |
| Powered by phpBay Pro |
![]() |
No items matching your keywords were found.
![]() |
No items matching your keywords were found.
![]() |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Radar Detector w/GPS red light camera locator BLUE LED | ![]() | ![]() | US $429.95 | 16d 17h 17m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Blue Radar Detector NEW UNOPENED SEALED IN BOX! | ![]() | 24 Bids | US $395.00 | 5h 48m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 x50 Radar Detector BLUE | ![]() | 22 Bids | US $152.55 | 17h 56m |
![]() | Passport 8500 X50 Blue Radar Detectory by Escort | ![]() | 1 Bid | US $199.00 | 18h 17m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Blue Radar Detector | ![]() | 18 Bids | US $300.52 | 1d 3h 5m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix BlueLaser Detector w/ GPS 9500 ix | ![]() | 1 Bid | US $300.00 | 2d 7h 35m |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Radar Detector BLUE | ![]() | 0 Bid | US $350.00 | 3d 4h 57m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 Radar Detector blue | ![]() | ![]() | US $200.00 | 3d 13h 32m |
![]() | Escort Passport 8500 X50 Radar Laser Detector Blue LED | ![]() | 2 Bids | US $92.00 | 3d 14h 18m |
![]() | NEW ESCORT 9500iX BLUE LED PASSPORT RADAR LASER DETECTOR 9500 iX 9500IXBLUE | ![]() | ![]() | US $428.99 | 16d 5h 4m |
| Powered by phpBay Pro |
| | Escort 9500ix Radar Detector Escort 9500ixBlu-Blue Passport 9500ix - Blue Display $599.94 Radar Detectors by Escort. Escort 9500ix Radar Detector Features - The Escort 9500ix Radar Detector provides 360-degrees of all-band radar and laser detection. Completely immune to police radar detector-detectors. TrueLock Signal Rejection uses GPS to eliminate false alerts by location and frequency-no more false alarms. Variable Speed Sensitivity provides protection based on vehicle speed-no parking-lot false alerts. SpeedAlert announces vehicle speed during each alert. Escort 9500i Radar, Escort 9500ix Radar Detector - Videos, Installations & Reviews. For the top selection of Escort Radar Detectors shop online today. The Escort 9500i Radar, Escort 9500ix Radar Detector - Videos, Installations & Reviews will improve and personalize your vehicle. Radar Detectors by Escort - selected by many auto enthusiasts in the top automotive discussion forums. Escort 9500ix Radar Detector for your vehicle will deliver the results you are looking for! Escort 9500ix Radar Detector - Radar Detectors - Radar Detectors. |
| | Escort Passport 9500ci Radar Detector - Escort Passport 9500 ci Radar Detectors $1919.94 Radar Detectors by Escort. Escort Passport 9500ci Radar Detector Features - The Escort Passport 9500ci is the ultimate radar and laser defense system. Custom installed in your vehicle – no dash top units or windshield suction-cup eyesores. Discreet installation means no tell-tale signs to draw unwanted attention. Separate miniature control module and text display units expand mounting options. Included in-dash bezel delivers a factory-installed look. Escort 9500ci Radar Detector - Escort Passport 9500 ci Radar Detectors - Read Customer Reviews. For the top selection of Escort Radar Detectors shop online today. The Escort 9500ci Radar Detector - Escort Passport 9500 ci Radar Detectors - Read Customer Reviews will improve and personalize your vehicle. Radar Detectors by Escort - selected by many auto enthusiasts in the top automotive discussion forums. Escort Passport 9500ci Radar Detector for your vehicle will deliver the results you are looking for! Escort Passport 9500ci Radar Detector - Radar Detectors - Radar Detectors. |
| | Escort SOLO S3 Radar Detector - Escort Passport Cordless Radar Detectors $419.94 Radar Detectors by Escort. Escort SOLO S3 Radar Detector Features - Drive smarter when your ride's equipped with the Escort SOLO S3 Radar Detector. The sleek, cordless design makes this detector perfect for use in multiple vehicles. Powered by two standard AA batteries. Designed with audible and visual low-battery alerts. Features patented Digital Signal Processing (DSP) for long-range warning with less false alarms. Escort Solo S3 Radar Detector - Escort Passport S3 Cordless Radar Detectors. For the top selection of Escort Radar Detectors shop online today. The Escort Solo S3 Radar Detector - Escort Passport S3 Cordless Radar Detectors will improve and personalize your vehicle. Radar Detectors by Escort - selected by many auto enthusiasts in the top automotive discussion forums. Escort SOLO S3 Radar Detector for your vehicle will deliver the results you are looking for! Escort SOLO S3 Radar Detector - Radar Detectors - Radar Detectors. |
| | 8500 X50 Passport Radar Detector (Blue LED) $329 Let me be blunt: the Escort Passport 8500 X50 is the BEST radar/laser detector ever created. If you think I'm exaggerating, take a look at the reviews by every major auto magazine and radar testing organization out there. They all agree that Escort's years of experience, cutting edge technology, and attention to detail produced the most effective radar/laser detection device available today. A significant leap forward from the extremely popular Passport 7500, the 8500 X50 performs exceptionally well even in the toughest condition. This detector can alert you to laser and radar threats up to 3 miles ahead, while drastically reducing the number of false alarms you get. In independent tests, the Escort 8500 scored the highest marks of any unit in the instant-on category which is one of the toughest radar situations to recognize. And the 8500 X50 has an advanced digital signal processor that can be reprogrammed; as radar threats change, your X50 will be able to adapt. |
| | Escort Passport 9500ci Radar Detector 9500Ci Passport 9500 Ci Radar Detector $1919.94 Radar Detectors by Escort. Escort Passport 9500ci Radar Detector Features - The Escort Passport 9500ci is the ultimate radar and laser defense system. Custom installed in your vehicle – no dash top units or windshield suction-cup eyesores. Discreet installation means no tell-tale signs to draw unwanted attention. Separate miniature control module and text display units expand mounting options. Included in-dash bezel delivers a factory-installed look. Escort 9500ci Radar Detector - Escort Passport 9500 ci Radar Detectors - Read Customer Reviews. For the top selection of Escort Radar Detectors shop online today. The Escort 9500ci Radar Detector - Escort Passport 9500 ci Radar Detectors - Read Customer Reviews will improve and personalize your vehicle. Radar Detectors by Escort - selected by many auto enthusiasts in the top automotive discussion forums. Escort Passport 9500ci Radar Detector for your vehicle will deliver the results you are looking for! Escort Passport 9500ci Radar Detector - Radar Detectors - Radar Detectors. |
| | Escort Passport 8500 X50 Radar/Laser Detector $299.99 Passport 8500 X50 Red designed for the driving enthusiast, the Passport 8500 X50 delivers the best possible protection in its class. In test after test, the Passport 8500 X50 comes out on top. Digital signal processing (DSP) provides maximum range, with minimum false alarms. |
| | Passport 9500ix GPS Powered Radar Detector - Blue Display $499.95 the GPS-powered PASSPORT 9500ix, is no exception. It provides the best long-range protection against every known radar and laser gun in use in North America, but also incorporates GPS accuracy to silence each and every false alert. It is by far the most intelligent, fully automatic radar and laser detector ever designed. You drive. It learns. End of story. he PASSPORT 9500ix also comes pre-loaded with thousands of safety camera locations, including red light and speed-based cameras throughout North America. You can also download updates, back up your data, and stay on top of new threats directly from Escort's website. |
| | Belle Hop Passport Case $12.99 Passport Case Type: Passport Holders Color: Aqua Color Mapping: Blue |
| | Passport $6.49 Passport |
| | Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector Escort 8500X50BL-Blue $413.94 Radar Detectors by Escort. Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector Features - Frequently hailed as the best detector in the world, the Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector boasts the widest range on the market. The Escort 8500 X50 provides advance warning of police K, Ka, X, Laser (Lidar) and POP (instant-on) methods. VG-2 "detector detector" invisible. The Escort 8500 X50 is equipped with advanced programming to virtually eliminate false alarms. Advanced reprogrammable microprocessor accepts updates for new police radar and laser detection methods. Escort 8500, Escort 8500 x50 Blue Display Radar Detector. For the top selection of Escort Radar Detectors shop online today. The Escort 8500, Escort 8500 x50 Blue Display Radar Detector will improve and personalize your vehicle. Radar Detectors by Escort - selected by many auto enthusiasts in the top automotive discussion forums. Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector for your vehicle will deliver the results you are looking for! Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector - Radar Detectors - Radar Detectors. |
| | Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector Escort 8500X50RD-Red $365.94 Radar Detectors by Escort. Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector Features - Frequently hailed as the best detector in the world, the Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector boasts the widest range on the market. The Escort 8500 X50 provides advance warning of police K, Ka, X, Laser (Lidar) and POP (instant-on) methods. VG-2 "detector detector" invisible. The Escort 8500 X50 is equipped with advanced programming to virtually eliminate false alarms. Advanced reprogrammable microprocessor accepts updates for new police radar and laser detection methods. Escort 8500, Escort 8500 x50 Blue Display Radar Detector. For the top selection of Escort Radar Detectors shop online today. The Escort 8500, Escort 8500 x50 Blue Display Radar Detector will improve and personalize your vehicle. Radar Detectors by Escort - selected by many auto enthusiasts in the top automotive discussion forums. Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector for your vehicle will deliver the results you are looking for! Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector - Radar Detectors - Radar Detectors. |
| | Royce Leather Passport Jacket $30 Beautifully detailed passport jacket with the US seal and Passport debossed in elegant gold foil on rich Nappa Cowhide leather. Type: Passport Holders Color: Royce Blue Color Mapping: Blue |
| | The Escort $19.99 The Escort - Premium Poster |
| | Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector $365.94 Radar Detectors by Escort. Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector Features - Frequently hailed as the best detector in the world, the Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector boasts the widest range on the market. The Escort 8500 X50 provides advance warning of police K, Ka, X, Laser (Lidar) and POP (instant-on) methods. VG-2 "detector detector" invisible. The Escort 8500 X50 is equipped with advanced programming to virtually eliminate false alarms. Advanced reprogrammable microprocessor accepts updates for new police radar and laser detection methods. Escort 8500, Escort 8500 x50 Blue Display Radar Detector. For the top selection of Escort Radar Detectors shop online today. The Escort 8500, Escort 8500 x50 Blue Display Radar Detector will improve and personalize your vehicle. Radar Detectors by Escort - selected by many auto enthusiasts in the top automotive discussion forums. Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector for your vehicle will deliver the results you are looking for! Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector - Radar Detectors - Radar Detectors. |
![]() | 8 AWG Power Kit in Blue |
![]() | Escort Passport 9500ix Radar/Laser Detector (Blue Display) List Price: |
DescriptionEscort Passport 9500ix Radar/Laser Detector (Black) |
![]() | Pyle PL63BL 6.5-Inch 360-Watt 3-Way Speakers (Pair) List Price: |
DescriptionThese 6.5-inch Pyle triaxials make a great replacement for your OEM speakers, with 360 Watts of peak power handling and the added definition of a coaxial system. Great sound and wicked looks in an affordable package... |
![]() | Beltronics RX65-Red Professional Series Radar Detector List Price: |
DescriptionIf you are as serious about safety as you are about driving, then you need the Beltronics RX65 Professional Radar Detector . The Beltronics RX65 Features extreme sensitivity to all Radar and Laser bands with over 10 times the range of other imported detectors... |
![]() | Dual XD6150 AM/FM/CD Receiver with 3.5mm Auxiliary Input, USB Charging Port and Detachable Face List Price: |
Description50W X 4 PEAK POWERCD-R/RW COMPATIBLE1.0 CDIN IMPORT & ISO MOUNTABLEHIGH-SPEED AUDIOANTI-SHOCK MECHANISM3-BEAM OPTICAL LASER PICKUPFRONT PANEL USB INPUT1 PAIR PREAMP OUTPUTSPLL TUNER WITH 30 STATION PRESETSELECTRONIC DETACHABLE FACEINCLUDES HARD CARRYING CASE & REMOTEUPC : 827204105122Shipping Dimensions : 10... |
![]() | PYLE PLBWS210 Dual 10-Inch 1000 Watt Bandpass with Neon Woofer Rings List Price: |
DescriptionTwo 10 High Power 4 Ohm Subwoofers Blue Neon Silhouette Woofer Rings Silver Polypropylene Cones Specially Treated Rubber Egde Suspension 2Aluminum Voice Coil Bandpass Alignment for Extra Deep Bass Quick Connect Input Terminals Plexiglass Front Window 1000 Watts Max Power Handling 2 Tuned Ports Frequency Response: 35Hz-1k Hz Dimensions: 13H x 25... |
![]() | Boss 755DBI In-Dash Solid State MP3 Receiver with Built-In iPod Docking Station List Price: |
DescriptionBOSS AUDIO 755DBI In-Dash Solid State Multimedia Receiver with USB Port |
Escort Passport 8500 Blue x50 KA / #2
Chasing adventure via motorcycle in Latin America
On the pampas the horizons seem to flee. The llamas are golden, the clouds impossibly white. We let the bikes run. Suddenly, the view changes. The lead bike rises above the line of the horizon, a rider flails through the air 10 feet above the ground. This is not good. Jeff has gone off the road at 70 mph. Katie goes into paramedic mode, calming Jeff, running her hands up his spine, probing, checking ribs, legs, arms. The fall has ripped his touring jacket from shoulder to waist, peeling the back protector to reveal the We-Build-Bridges T-shirt. He is scuffed, but within moments is giggling, flashing the “I Can’t Believe I’m Still Alive” grin that is his default expression.
Ryan pulls the bike up and starts collecting the bits scattered across the desert. The luggage is destroyed. The right handlebar is bent almost to the tank. Mirrors, turn signals, front fender snapped off in a microsecond. Both wheel rims have dents. Incredibly, it still runs. He puts the parts that still work back on the bike, takes it for a test ride. It will last another 7,000 miles. Our motto: We Will Make This Work.
Jeff tells what happened. A small bird had hopped into his path. The next thing he knew he was off the road, launched into a culvert. “I thought, wow. I’m Superman. Oh look, there’s the bike. Oh look, there’s the bird…” In a field strewn with jagged boulders, he had landed on sand.
THE BEGINNING
The trip came up long before I was ready. A phone call, an invitation to tag along with a group of BMW riders embarking on a five-week, 8,000-mile journey from Peru to Virginia. I would document the ride, a fundraising effort for a group that builds footbridges in remote areas of the world. I’d been thinking about a long ride, something open-ended, without support vehicles, the experience of being totally “out there.” This seemed to fit the bill. A third of the distance around the world with complete strangers. I had a brand-new BMW F 800 GS and it was thirsty. If there was a point of no return, I crossed it before I hung up the phone.
First, the riders. Ken Hodge is an insurance benefits specialist and member in good standing of the Newport News Rotary Club. He discovered motorcycles late in life, when he bought a bike, rode it across country in 48 hours, then began to dream of a bigger adventure, something for a good cause.
He recruited his daughter Katie (a fire department paramedic), his stepson Ryan (a mechanic and dirt-bike rider) and Ryan’s best friend Jeff. I’m impressed by their preparations. They ride old BMW R 1150s and F 650 singles. Ryan had spent a year renewing the bikes, poking about the inner recesses, memorizing the shop manuals for each machine. They would bring enough tools and parts to handle almost every emergency.
INTO THE ANDES
We stop at Nazca to view the ancient figures scratched in the rocky desert. From the top of a tower we can see a figure with raised hands. Just to the north, the Pan-American Highway bisects the figure of a lizard, decapitating the creature. Bound by the tight focus of brass transit levels, the surveyors who laid out the road were not even aware of the sacred relics, discovered when aerial flight became common.
I realize that we are as blinded by focus, by concentration as the surveyors were by their instrument. The trip will be a series of images, sidelong glances, captured at speed.
Descendants of the people who built the Inca trail, Peruvian builders know their stuff. But it’s the tracery, the managed flow of momentum, that has our respect. The road ascends ancient seabeds, hills covered with talus, fractured dry ridges with cornices sculpted by landslides. Midday, we find ourselves on a high pampas inhabited by thousands of vicuña and alpaca. In the distance, our first sight of snowcapped peaks. There are stone corrals on nearby slopes, one-room huts. In the middle of this giant nowhere, a lone shepherd walking on the side of the hill.
We discover that the distances on maps are those of the condor. We travel incredibly twisted roads that sometimes take a hundred turns (and several miles) to get from one ridge to the next. The map indicates towns, but to our dis-may not all have gas stations. We buy gas in a small outpost from a woman who ladles it out of a bucket with a coffee pot, then pours it through a plastic, woven kitchen funnel into our tanks. The whole town watches. We push on into the descending night. We make it to the next set of lights, 20 or so buildings on two streets, find a hotel, and park our bikes in an enclosed backyard with dogs, chickens, dead birds, plastic bottles and an animal hide tanning on the wall. Instead of the usual exit signs, the restaurant in our hotel has green arrows that say “ESCAPE.” It is not a criticism of the food. The forces that drive the Andes skyward have been known to demolish whole towns.
The next morning we fire up the bikes, and ascend into the Andes on a perfect road. We are fluid, going through hairpins, double hairpins, squared-off turns—climbing the flank of a single 4,700-meter peak. I can think of only one word: delicious. We move through mist and low-hanging clouds, with shafts of sunlight slanting into rainbows. The valleys below are green and fertile, a mix of old Inca terracing and more modern farms. Slender eucalyptus trees line the road, providing shade for huts with red tile roofs. A girl tends a flock of goats (identified with colorful ribbons) on a green meadow, book in hand. At one point I think the clouds above have parted to reveal patches of blue, but when I look up I see that it is snow-covered rock, another 3,000 or 4,000 feet of mountain. On a turnoff near the top of the peak we find a dozen or so tiny shrines, little churches decorated with flowers and ribbons and photographs of loved ones. The site of a bus plunge. On a hillside across the valley paragliders work the thermals, the canopies looking like bright-colored eyebrows, or ostentatious angels.
We share the road with vicuña, alpaca, llama, sheep, goats, dogs, roosters, pigs, horses and cows. On a narrow lane near Abancay, a bull tries to gore me as I pass, charging and making a hooking motion with its horns. One night after the sunset, I round a corner and a beautiful roan stallion wheels in the light from our bikes, filling the lane with wide eyes and flashing hoofs, inches from my head. I realize that riding sweep poses a risk. The novelty of our passing bikes wears off, and the local wildlife has time to react.
Entering Cusco, Ryan asks directions, a girl directs us onto a narrow cobblestone street, slick with rain, as steep as a bobsled run. The rocks are turned on their side, like teeth. The knobbies have no traction whatsoever. The people on the sidewalks frantically wave their hands, indicating that the road gets steeper. I touch my brake and the bike goes down, pinning my leg against the curb, a quarter of an inch shy of a fracture. The bike behind me goes down. It is harrowing. The locals help us lift the bikes, get them turned uphill.
A police escort leads us to a hotel that lets us store the motorcycles in the lobby. Without bothering to shower, we make our way to the Norton Rats Bar on the northeast corner of the central plaza. The owner, an American expatriate, once piloted a Norton to the tip of the continent. The walls are lined with photos from the trip. Above the bar are mounted heads, the four past American presidents, with their best known soundbites: I am not a crook. I did not inhale. I do not recall. We will find WMD in Iraq. We sip beers, trade stories, trying to reassemble the past few days. The dead battery. The punctured radiator. The roadside repairs. The incredible rush of unrelenting beauty.
Three days of desert north of Lima generate a few details. The total absence of life, the three colors of sand. Young boys pedaling tricycle ice cream carts in the middle of nowhere. We enter a <I>zona de nimbleras</I>, but instead of fog we find a 60-mph crosswind that sends a layer of grit skittering across the road like a special effect in a Steven Spielberg movie. Two lanes narrow to one covered by blowing sand, thick enough to swallow the front tire, deep enough that a road grader prepares to clear the drifting sands.
We decide to try a secondary route through the hills. We turn onto a dirt road and everything changes. We pass through villages alive with people, dogs, tiny three-wheel taxis fashioned from old motorcycles. Kids on motorscooters ride past, snapping pictures with their cell phones. The road throws split-finger fastballs at the bash plate that clang as loud and adamant as the sound of an aluminum bat. We slosh our way through gravel, gray dust on everything, parts falling off, teeth rattling. Oh yes, this is what we wanted.
ECUADOR
In Macara, we sit on the sidewalk near a minor town square, eating pork cooked by a rotund woman in a yellow dress. Her daughter brings us three beers (giant) at a time, and keeps the empties in a milk crate for accounting later. Boys on motorbikes cruise the quiet streets, the lucky ones with girls on the back. Across the square, girls sit on benches. Jeff experiences a cultural revelation, that South American girls have breasts, and wear tight pants…and “Hey, I think she likes me.”
Our dinner companion is David McCollum, an American expatriate that Ryan had met on ADVrider.com. He tells us stories about riding the Ecuadoran Andes, and gives us tips on handling roadblocks. “Act Stupid. Do not try to communicate in Spanish. Say ‘No fumar Espanol’ (I don’t smoke Spanish). If all else fails, have Katie cry.” Er, Katie does not do “cry.” The next day he leads us into the Ecuadoran Andes.
Impressions: Razor-sharp ridges. Lumpy, conical outcroppings. Monasteries on top of hills. Slopes so steep they will never be worked by machine. A couple standing above dark earth, the man holding a wooden hoe, the woman a bag of seeds. A woman on horseback, black and red cape, a whip coiled in one hand. Trees. Cloud. Mist. The feel of a Japanese block print, the ones that suggest the road goes to infinity.
I had introduced the group to a family tradition. When we travel, we end each day by recounting high point, low point and funny bone. After this day, I will add “Pucker moments.” Trucks hurtle out of the fog, running without lights, signaled only by the ghostly wave pushed before. They appear in our lane without warning or reason. We go through construction sites where the road narrows to one lane that offers no escape route. One side seems hideously close to the new concrete, studded with rebar fangs. The other side is precipice. Pucker moments? Take your pick. Sometimes it’s the surface, a half mile of muddy bobsled run, of loose gravel, of gushing water, the bike handling like a loose bowel. Twice, we round a corner and find no road, the surface having caved in, sucked away by underground torrents. Katie’s moment comes when a cow, with no footing, scrambles into the path of her bike. For Jeff, it is passing a truck that suddenly swerves to avoid a pothole, the trailer swinging toward him like a baseball bat.
We spend two days in Cuenca, a 500-year-old city surrounded by mountains. Ken phones ahead and discovers that the ship that was to have taken us and the bikes from Ecuador to Panama doesn’t exist (had we had drugs or been illegal aliens, no problem, but there are no accommodations for <I>turistas</I> with motorcycles). We ask David for help. While we ride to Quito, he will work the phones. He finds a contact, a guy known for getting things done when no one else can. We meet up with this air freight magician at The Turtle’s Head, a biker bar in Quito. At midnight.
The next morning we ride our bikes to the military section of the airport, then into a refrigerated warehouse. The steel floor is covered with embedded ball bearings, across which slide steel palettes. For the next three hours we wrestle with tiedowns. A skinny man dressed entirely in black oversees the operation, taking pictures of the bikes with a digital camera, making sure batteries are disconnected, tires are deflated. Drug-sniffing dogs poke their noses into every recess.
Then, just like that, our bikes are gone, on their way to Panama in the belly of an airplane.
CENTRAL AMERICA
Central American countries are the size of postage stamps. You can cross them in a day and a half, only to spend a half day at customs and immigration. Ken had prepared Xerox copies of all our documents (passports, licenses, titles, registration, VIN numbers) and had them notarized. As he works with the official in the air-conditioned office, we sit in 100-degree heat and watch ants carry grains of dirt from beneath the ground. We will become used to the demands for more copies, the freelance currency traders waving bills in front of our faces, the young hustlers willing to facilitate the process, the food vendors waiting for starvation to overcome caution about local cuisine.
Before embarking on this trip, I’d read State Department travel advisories. The section on Peru warned that five Americans had died from liposuction in Lima. OK, was that consensual liposuction, or were there gangs of thugs wielding vacuum cleaners with sharp pointy attachments? Virtually every entry on Central American countries warned about fake checkpoints, bandits in uniform, soldiers in the middle of nowhere.
Along the roadside are signs with a blood-red eye and the warning <I>vigilantes</I>. We round a corner to find two soldiers walking patrol, miles from the nearest town. They ask for paperwork. A surge of adrenaline turns my mouth to cotton. David, our friend in Ecuador had given us good advice: Act stupid. Smile. We seem to have a natural talent for that. <I>No fumar Espanol</I>. After inspecting our paperwork, they wave us on. In the next few weeks we will be stopped repeatedly, sniffed by dogs, x-rayed, wanded with devices that look like carving knives with car antennas where the blade should be. At border crossings, guys in jumpsuits and facemasks spray our bikes with liquids designed to kill stowaway bugs too lazy to cross borders under their own power. There are soldiers at every gas station, armed attendants at convenience stores and restaurants, guys with shotguns on Pepsi trucks. We are aware of poverty, a culture of criminal opportunity. The night air can strip your bike naked, if you don’t find a hotel with secure parking.
These countries are linked by soil to the United States, and our culture has rattled its way through. Central America is a motorbike culture. Whole families whiz by, perched on narrow seats, wearing helmets with missing visors. In Panama City we run into a group of Harley riders. The bikes have exhausts the size of howitzers, the horns blare a soundtrack of special effects. They surround us, and ask if we want to join their regular weekend burger run. We follow them to an exclusive country club just beyond the Mira Flores locks on the Panama Canal. They send us off with directions to a bed-and-breakfast up the coast. I fall asleep that night in a hammock, a bottle of beer still clutched in my hand, the blades of a fan whirring softly overhead.
Central America has a different feel than Peru and Ecuador, a different gravity. We move through verdant countryside at a speed that would be natural in Virginia or Colorado or California. The vegetation looks like fireworks, only green. Here clusters of one plant have taken over a hillside. There a different species explodes. A slow war.
We have been in the saddle for three weeks. Nothing can break our pace. We abandon the Pan-American Highway and find roads that make it seem like you have two flat tires, ones that seem like you’re riding on an oil spill. There are narrow, one-vehicle-at-a-time bridges of mismatched narrow-gauge rails, or on lesser roads, steel plates tossed across rotting timbers. The terrain is a geological mash-up, without the power of the Andes, but enough unexpected elevation change and tight corners to make for an interesting ride. Towns announce themselves with speed bumps and potholes that can swallow bikes whole. I see road signs unique to the country, silhouettes of odd animals. A snake crossing. A jaguar crossing. In Costa Rica we hit a 30-mile stretch of gravel road, and the world becomes dust. The bikes come alive. We romp, skitter, wander, trusting the gyroscope. I try to read the strange shadows that appear in the dust—bicyclists, ATVs, huge trucks with no lights—not always accurately. There are breaks in the dust cloud when I see fields filled with white cattle and at their feet white egrets. The sky tinges pink with light from a setting sun. A feeling almost like peace.
We spend a night in Arsenal, a destination resort for adrenaline junkies with discretionary income. Posters advertise canopy walks, zipline rides through the rain forest, the chance to rappel down waterfalls, night hikes to lava flows, kayaking, canoeing. We ignore the offers, saddle up and ride into the rain forest. A group of meercats swarms down an embankment onto the road. Monkeys cavort in the trees overhead. A tourist zips by on a steel cable casting a shadow on the road, a blur of color in the sky. It looks like someone was hanging laundry and forgot to take his or her clothes off.
Nicaragua has its own feel. We ride past volcanoes so large they make their own weather, the crowns hidden beneath wide-brimmed clouds. Don Quixote in his barber bowl hat. The streets are clogged with horsedrawn buggies. We find a hotel near the town square. Across the street from the hotel is a shop offering galactic Internet. The traditional culture is slowly losing ground to bandwidth. Relay towers compete with church steeples, billboards for cell service block oversized statues of saints on nearby hilltops.
We visit a bridge, built by Ken’s organization, in a remote area of Honduras. At the turnoff from the main road I think we are entering a drainage ditch. Indeed, during the rainy season the road is impassable, the clay surface too slick for traction. Now, the bikes tackle a road gouged by erosion, working their way around rocks exposed by the force of water. This is by far the most technical riding of the trip.
The 40-mile road will take five hours to cross. The clawmark gullies pull Ken’s bike out from under him; Katie rides into a ditch and smashes her bike’s windscreen. Even Ryan has trouble. The river, when we reach it, is intimidating. I take pictures of the bikes as they come through, pushing a bow wave over front wheels, jouncing up the rocks on the other side. If a trip can be reduced to 1?250th of a second, a single moment seared in memory, these pictures would be it.
We cross into Guatemala, and spend the night with Hemingway impersonators and Jimmy Buffet wannabes in Rio Dulce. The hotel has a wonderful tacky feeling. The overhead fan showers sparks. The power goes off at regular intervals, as does the water. If you want a shower, step outside. We spend a long day riding through rain. The water destroys one of my cameras, turning the LCD into an aquarium. Hey, I have enough pictures.
ALMOST THERE
At the first town over the Mexican border, we stop for directions on a crowded street. A truck sideswipes my bike, snags a sidecase, and drags me down. I’m unhurt, but the windscreen and instrument panel lie in fragments. The police, when they arrive, are the opposite of helpful. We collect the broken bits, duct tape everything in sight, and fire it up. We are unstoppable. We ride on, but the mood of the ride changes and the calendar beckons. Katie, Ryan and Jeff have to be back by a certain date, or they lose their jobs.
The ride becomes time vs. distance, a push that blurs most of Mexico, and a final border crossing into the United States.
We hurtle across long roads, nursing bikes that are showing signs of wear. Ken’s bike is missing a sidestand. Ryan’s helmet a visor. Katie treats her BMW’s busted windscreen like a badge of honor, but still, a 75-mph headwind is exhausting. Jeff’s bike has chewed the rear sprocket to nubbins, the chain is beginning to slip. It will wind up in a U-Haul 100 miles from home.
Five weeks after departing, we see the lights of Newport News. As they enter the city, Ken, Ryan and Katie spread across the road, side by side, arms raised. The long ride is over.
About the Author
To read more motorcycle tours stories like this or get reviews of the latest bikes and gear, go to ridermagazine.com or pick up a copy of Rider Magazine.

































